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I have 2 of these. One gives perfect results, one seems to drop off after lots of data transfer. They look alnoat identical, but one is name brand and ine ia probaboy a cheap chinese copy. Wiring is probably sub-par
I have 2 of these. One gives perfect results, one seems to drop off after lots of data transfer. They look alnoat identical, but one is name brand and ine ia probaboy a cheap chinese copy. Wiring is probably sub-par
This is a very good article about server setup mainly for power consumption, but shows quirks like power level draw based on what pcie slots are used, etc. This guy servers. https://mattgadient.com/7-watts-idle-on-intel-12th-13th-gen-the-foundation-for-building-a-low-power-server-nas/
Rustdesk or Teamviewer https://www.teamviewer.com/en/download/linux/
Rustdesk ia great and almoat feature to feature with teamviewer. Rustdesk has some non opensource code portions and some have speculated that the contributors could be chinese state actors, etc. But TV is proprietary…so…
SkyDaddy Drivel
Seafile has a free open source edition, and even their paid enterprise license is free under 3 users
Instead of wifi printing, my printer is attached directly to my Pi, then Common Unix Print Server/System (later Rebranded Cupertino Print Server when apple took over the project many years later) acts as printer announcement, driver and spooler service.
https://github.com/jkbenaim/hs100 if you have tplink kasa hardware this cli tool lets you send direct commands via Wifi, no hub required. it is not that the tech actually needs a server, it is that the server handles IP address changes, records data, checks switch on/off status, scheduling, etc, to provide a better experience than hitting an on off command.
What is bad is when the supplying company goes out of business, you are left with junk. Self Hosting is the way.
Also if you buy Kasa TPlink plgus and switches there is a git HS100 repo that has scripts to run to preprogram your switches to use a localhost instead of baked in proprietary IP server, and scripts to associate your switches and plugs to your wifi without an app. https://github.com/jkbenaim/hs100
With this CLI tool you can also manipulate the plugs and switches direct by IP address rather than via homeassistant server.
You just need one Pi. get a pi5 for future proofing. Docker addition , so you can host more than just home assiatant
My homeassistant is running on a pi2 with 2GB RAM. it doesn’t need much.
But yes, it is a central place for processing and recording data, either from phone, imstalled electrical hardware or other devices.
Monsterlabo makes fanless cases, almost all heatsink, with upward airflow. There is another bramd where heatpipes attach to outerside aluminum finned panels, but I forget the name
I just picked up a Monsterlabo: The First, it is all heatsink for the top 2/3rds so your CPU and GPU are completely fanless, I’m searching for a fanless PSU now. It will be a dead silent PC.
For the ones I had, the corrosion of the metal and stained labels was the give away (looked like they had been out on an autoshop repair bench), but each part had its own label dates. HDD was way older date than the controller board.
Depends on your ISP, some only allow their product, some don’t care. If they only allow their equipment you can often pay less rent per month by going to bridge mode, or they supply a bridge, and ypu use your own wifi router. I think ours was $5 month for modem, $10 if you used their wifi router
Amazon reseller for xbox drives was getting 10 year old dirty crusty drives and swapping the HD controller to a more recent one. So SMART report looked like a young drive. Xbox casing had a sticker or warranty void. So me being me wondered and opened it to find a dirty ass old drive inside. i called Amazon and initially they said it is outside of return window and warranty…But i explained it doesn’t matter when I detected the fraud it is still fraud. So they gave me my money back
I have bought 2 sata to USB adapters…they look identical ( other than expensive one has slightly heavier cord ) one for $4 one for $20. The $4 one has the blue USB 3 look to it, but it doesn’t transfer as fast as the real USB 3 cord that cost $20.
Yeah, I don’t diagree on Value, I just would not trust them on mission critical. If you listen to back catalog of 2.5admins they explain in detail about what you could encounter. On the flip side drives are supposed to last 10 years, I have a 13 year old one still chugging away.
oof, I have to upgrade one of my drives then, since those options are showing in the drive config. But yeah, my newer drive has this option greyed out. Only performance vs power saving is and adjustable slider on the new ones. Interesting thing is google says that article was from September 2023, so it is quite out of date then.
Lol. It is. Before my first coffee.