I’ve seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.

After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done. image
I used Hexagons where possible, because as you know, Hexagons are the bestagons

This is Before:
image

And the After:
image
The ducky adds 200MHz

The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I’d focus on the back first.

I’ve published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see.

I self host a bunch of stuff on here to get away from Big-Tech, and because I find it fun. For a lot more details see https://erasmus.works/

It always bothered me the the fronts of racs are modular, but not the backs, this solves that
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hopefully this helps other clear up their rats nests.

  • snrkl@lemmus.org
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    4 hours ago

    I don’t want to be the “Deputy Downer” here, but I can’t stress the important of the v0 (we say v-naught) plastics in keeping you safe when it comes to electrical installations - for those that aren’t aware, they are plastics that have to self extinguish once the fault trips the electrical protection, should a fault occur that sets them on fire. (ie: once the electricity isn’t making it flame anymore, it has to put itself out)

    Here is an example of how even low voltage DC can fault, and had the LED strip diffuser plastic not been v0 rated, we would have had a late night house fire into the roof when kids were asleep…

    Laundry Light Fitting Failure

    PETG in this kind of situation just becomes fuel and possible a very, very, very bad day…

    I know v0 spools are more expensive, but cheaper than just about any of the disaster situation alternatives, so I always suggest you prototype with PLA/PETG but print v0 for the finals…